Hiking Alta Via 2 (160km) - Dolomites (Italy) - Part 2: Rif. Puez - Rif. Plose - Rif. Marmolada

Having already been on the move for a few days now, it's easy to get into a rhythm and have a routine. Wake up early, check forecast, have breakfast, leave for the next refuge. But sometimes is good to get out of your comfort zone and go the extra mile even when you know there's a long day ahead. Almost always, the reward is worth it.

Waking up in the dark, I made my up Piz Puez fairly quickly. The scenery was amazing and there's nothing better than feeling the first rays of sun on your cold skin. Back at the refuge just in time for breakfast, I pack and leave. The path is well marked and, at first, it follows the edge of a long cliff until eventually crosses to the other side of the mountain through a narrow tunnel cutting across a few valleys, but never really loosing too much altitude. After a while, you emerge into a vast open plateau, surrounded by rocky peaks. There is an option of taking a higher path and following the ridge. I continued across the plateau knowing my pack will drain my powers otherwise. The path is visible all the way to Forcella Crespeina. After the lake with the same name, an abrupt ascent brings you to the pass.

Once on the other side, staying on the left and under the rocky ridge you reach Forcella Cier not long after. Sharp rocky formations make for a surreal scenery. From now on, the path descends all the way to Passo Gardena. There're a few restaurants to eat and have a drink, but prices are extremely high. Cutting across the valley and into a parking lot, you rejoin the AV2 trail which now ascends to the next peaks. At a junction, you have the option to continue ahead and take the via-ferrata route to Rif. Pisciadu. It's exposed and has a few difficult sections and climbing it without helmet and a kit is not recommended. There's always a risk of falling rocks dislodged by others. No equipment and a heavy pack left me one choice which was to turn right between two imposing rocky towers and ascend through Val de Setus via route 666. It also has a via ferrata but much shorter and easier. Arrived at the top, the refuge is just meters away, by the lake.

You can rent gear from them, but my plan of descending back in to the valley just to do the climb, has vanished once I've sat down and ate. Instead I was happy to wake up earlier the next day and ascend Cima Pisciadu. The weather has been amazing so far and was able to see all the way into Austria from the top after a quick scramble. I would definitely recommend going up.

Back at the base, the route continues ascending on rocky loose terrain reaching the plateau of one of the nearby peaks. Piz Boe dominates the horizon and gives you a sense of direction. After passing through Forcella d'Antersass, there is only about 30 minutes to Rif Boe. Being closed and in renovation, most of the tourists made their way up the nearby peak to Rif. Capanna Fassa. The detour is worth the effort and you will be rewarded with a breath-taking 360 degree views. Makes you feel like you're on top of the world. Eating chocolate cake and looking at the Marmolada is priceless. Spending the night and watching the sunset/sunrise must be surreal.

I still have a long way to go and descent into the vast and barren rocky plateau to Rif. Pordoi from where once can choose to descent on foot to Passo Pordoi, or take the cable car for 11 euros and save more than 1h of stress on the knees. Having been on the trails from 6am and having done several detours, there wasn't really a choice for me. At the bottom lift, there are several maps for the entire AV2 route which you can photograph if you don't have your own.

And as always, once on the valley floor, there isn't anywhere else to go but up. This time the ascent is gentle, on a broad bike track and reaches green pastures, a refuge and several restaurants at the start of a ski slope. From here, following a dirt track and keeping altitude, I follow the valley on a hill side, pass Rif. Viel del Pan and going towards the Fedaia Lake, which you can already see. Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, dominates the valley. Once arrived above the lake, a narrow path through pine trees brings you to rif. Castiglioni Marmolada, where I've spent my 4th night, having already joined several stages together.


#AltaVia2 #hikingDolomites #solohiking




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